Lecture
Colorants are a component of most cosmetic products. As a
rule, they are introduced in large amounts only into certain decorative cosmetic products (mascara, lipstick, etc.), whereas in shampoos and hand-washing
products their content does not exceed 0.01-0.005%. It is essential that only food-grade colorants be used in cosmetic products .
Most often, the classification of synthetic colorants in the cosmetics and
food industry follows the classification proposed by
the FFDCA (Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act – the federal act on
food products, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics (USA)). For example,
"FD&C Yellow No. 6" refers to the colorant "Sunset Yellow FCF", or the disodium salt of 6-hydroxy-5-[(4-sulfophenyl)azo]-2-naphthalenesulfonate.
This list includes nine colorants approved for use in food products, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetic
products, the so-called "FD&C colorants", and several colorants approved for
use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics – the "D&C
colorants." Other synthetic colorants are best avoided in cosmetic products.
It should be noted that even some FFDCA-approved colorants can, when
used, cause certain toxic effects [2, 5].
For example, the colorant "FD&C Blue No. 1" (brilliant blue –
C37H34N2Na2O9S3), which is used in the manufacture of soaps, shampoos,
and other cosmetic products, is a strong allergen for some people.
Daily consumption of this colorant per resident in the USA is
about 16 mg/day. This colorant is not recommended in cosmetic products for children. In some European countries the use of this colorant
is completely banned or restricted.
The colorant "FD&C Green No. 3" (sea green – C37H37N2O10S3) has
carcinogenic and mutagenic effects in experimental animals. In
addition, it can cause irritation of the eyes, skin, digestive tract, and respiratory organs.
The colorant "FD&C Red No. 40" (allura red – C18H14N2Na2O8S2), when
ingested by children over a long period, reduces their attention and causes
hyperactivity. In Europe, this colorant is not recommended for use in children's products.
The colorant "FD&C Yellow No. 6" (sunset yellow – C16H10Na2O7S2N2) –
is a sulfonated analogue of the dye Sudan (a potential carcinogen).
Sudan impurities are practically always present in the "sunset yellow" colorant.
This colorant causes allergic reactions in people with aspirin intolerance. It is also believed to cause hyperactivity in children.
The "sunset yellow" colorant is banned for use in Norway and
Finland.
Hair dyes represent a separate branch of cosmetic products.
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Dyes are divided into plant-based and artificial (synthetic) ones. There are only two
common plant-based hair dyes – henna and indigo (basma). The other hair
colorants, as well as bleaching and perming products, have a distinctly
synthetic nature. Synthetic hair dyes are divided into
oxidative, direct anthraquinone, and metal-salt-based dyes (silver, nickel) .
Oxidative dyes are the most widespread. They
contain substances that are not colorants themselves but acquire such properties on contact with an alkaline medium.
There are reports that women who dye their hair have an increased risk of developing certain types of neoplasms. An analysis of data
from 2302 patients with lymphoid neoplasia (1998-2003) showed that
the risk of developing lymphoma was 19% higher among people who dyed their hair compared with those who never used hair dyes. Among those who dyed their hair 12 or more times a year, the risk of lymphoma increased by 26%. In the 1960s-1970s, hair dye
formulations contained certain carcinogens. These components were removed from hair-dyeing compositions in the late 1970s. However, the risk of developing lymphoma was 62% higher among people who started dyeing their hair before 1980 compared with the group that did not dye their hair .
The independent public organization "Environmental Working Group" –
"Ecological Working Group" (USA) analyzed the chemical composition of 7500
hygiene and cosmetic products and found that 71 of 117 hair dyes contain compounds that are potential carcinogens.
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